Category: Control

  • Simply start the Autoterm Air parking heater via app

    The parking heaters from Autoterm, such as the "Air 2D" model, have established themselves in the motorhome community as a reliable and efficient heating solution. While the supplied control panel fulfills its purpose, many users would like a more convenient solution: being able to start the heating remotely - for example, when you come back from a hike or the ski slope and want to preheat.

    In this article, I'll show you various ways to control your Autoterm heating remotely, from the official solution to a smart DIY hack.

    These options are available

    Bad, but simple: The official GSM module from Autoterm

    With its GSM module, Autoterm offers an official solution for remote control. The module is connected between the heater and the control panel and enables control via smartphone app.

    However, the disadvantages clearly outweigh the advantages:

    • A separate SIM card with data volume is required
    • Communication takes place via SMS commands - even if you use the Autoterm app
    • With a price of over €100, the module is relatively expensive

    A look at the official Autoterm app in the App Store confirms the outdated state of the technology: last updated in 2019, poor ratings and a user interface that has long since seen its best days. In the age of IoT and smart homes, this solution is simply no longer up to date. The dependence on a functioning mobile phone connection at the parking space and the ongoing costs for the SIM card make the system unattractive.

    Smart, but complex: Proxy module between heating and control panel

    For the technically savvy, there is an elegant solution: a self-built proxy module that is connected between the heating and the control panel. This solution enables complete control over all heating functions.

    The principle:

    • A microcontroller (usually ESP32) is looped into the serial communication between the heater and the control panel
    • The controller "eavesdrops" on the communication and can feed in its own commands
    • Integration into Home Assistant or other smart home systems possible

    The challenges:

    • The serial protocol must be reverse-engineered
    • Knowledge of electronics and programming experience are essential
    • In the worst case, errors can damage the heating system
    • The time required for development and testing is considerable

    Projects like Robert Schröder's show that it works, but for most users the effort involved is disproportionate to the benefit.
    I have already experimented with this solution and have also developed and produced a prototype for my own communication board, which uses an ESP32 and can be plugged between the control unit and the heater. However, the software is not yet fully developed. As soon as I am ready, there will be a separate article on this blog.

    Self-developed prototype as proxy module between Autoterm and control unit

    Good compromise: Use of the existing emergency start cable

    The most elegant solution uses an existing function of the Autoterm heaters: The emergency start cable. This function is already integrated in every Autoterm Air 2D and is just waiting to be made smart.

    This is how the emergency start works: There is a brown and a white cable on the wiring harness of the heater. If these two cables are connected to each other, the heater starts immediately at the highest level and runs for exactly 2 hours. This function is actually intended for emergencies when the control panel fails. Tigerexped has written a more detailed description of where to find the cable.

    As soon as the two cables are connected together:

    • When connecting, the heating starts at maximum power
    • The heating switches off automatically after 2 hours
    • Reconnecting starts the cycle from the beginning
    • Disconnecting the cable stops the heating

    This function can be used perfectly for remote control without having to intervene in the complex electronics of the heating system.

    But how do you use this emergency start cable?

    The hardware: Shelly 1 Mini as a smart switch

    The Shelly 1 Mini is a miniature WLAN-capable relay that is perfect for this task. With its compact dimensions and a price of just €15-20, it is the ideal solution for our project.

    Shelly 1 Mini Gen3
    • 𝟭-𝗞𝗮𝗻𝗮𝗹-𝗦𝗺𝗮𝗿𝘁-𝗦𝘁𝗲𝘂𝗲𝗿𝘂𝗻𝗴: Supports up to 8A at 240 V AC or 5A at 30V DC; fits behind wall switches or in junction boxes to save space

    Letzte Aktualisierung am 14.04.2026 / Werbung / Bilder von der Amazon Product Advertising API

    Alternative: Shelly 1 If you want to invest a little more, you can opt for the Shelly 1. This slightly more expensive model (approx. €25-30) offers a decisive advantage: a temperature sensor, such as a DS18B20, can be connected via the AddOn module. This means you can not only start the heating, but also directly measure the temperature in the interior and check how warm it has already become. This is particularly useful for checking whether the heating is actually running and whether the interior has reached the desired temperature.

    Letzte Aktualisierung am 14.04.2026 / Werbung / Bilder von der Amazon Product Advertising API

    The wiring: The brown and white cables of the heater are connected to the switch output of the Shelly, the Shelly itself is supplied with 12V from the vehicle electrical system. There are many instructions on the internet for the exact wiring and connection details on how to switch a switch with a Shelly.

    Additional control option: A switch or button can also be connected to each Shelly. If you want to install a physical button in the motorhome in addition to the Wi-Fi control, this is no problem. This way, you always have a backup solution in case the WiFi doesn't work.

    The software configuration

    How to set up the Shelly: The Shelly can be set up using the free Shelly app. After the first start, the device creates its own Wi-Fi hotspot to which you connect. You then enter your camper WiFi access data in the app and the Shelly is online.

    The correct operating mode: It is important that you operate the Shelly in "Momentary Switch" mode. This means that the relay only switches for a brief moment (approx. 0.5 seconds), simulating a button press. This prevents the cables from remaining permanently connected.

    Integration in Home Assistant

    The integration into Home Assistant is particularly interesting for smart home enthusiasts. Shelly devices are officially supported by Home Assistant and can be integrated with just a few clicks. Once integrated, you can not only control the heating manually, but also create complex automations.

    Requirement: WLAN in the motorhome

    This solution assumes that a Wi-Fi router or mobile hotspot is available in your motorhome. This may seem like a restriction at first glance, but in practice it is usually not a problem. Most modern motorhomes are equipped with an LTE router anyway, and many campers already use mobile hotspots for internet on the road.

    If you don't yet have Wi-Fi in your camper, buying a mobile router is doubly worthwhile: not only do you have Internet for your devices, but you can also control your heating smartly. Inexpensive LTE routers are available from as little as €50, and with a data card you are independent of the often slow campsite Wi-Fi.

    I have had good experiences with Teltonika products. Compared to cheaper routers from Huawei, for example, you can insert 2 SIM cards and switch between the SIM cards automatically, e.g. when reception is poor. Here an older and a newer model with 5G from Teltonika in comparison with a mobile LTE modem:

    Letzte Aktualisierung am 14.04.2026 / Werbung / Bilder von der Amazon Product Advertising API

    Alternative: Control via the Shelly Cloud

    If you don't use a Home Assistant, you can also control the heating directly via the Shelly app. The Shelly Cloud offers a number of practical advantages:

    • Access from anywhere in the world
    • No need for your own server infrastructure
    • Simple timers and scenes
    • Push notifications for status changes
    • Free of charge and without subscription fees

    Conclusion

    Using the emergency start cable in combination with a Shelly 1 Mini is the perfect compromise between functionality, cost and complexity. With a budget of less than €20, you get reliable remote control of your Autoterm heating that can be seamlessly integrated into existing smart home systems or the Shelly app.

    In contrast to the overpriced GSM solution, you don't need an additional mobile connection, and compared to the complex proxy module, installation is completed in less than an hour.

    The only restriction - the heating always runs at full load for 2 hours - is usually not a problem in practice. Anyone who starts their heating remotely usually wants a quickly warm motorhome anyway.

    After two winters with this solution, I can say that there is hardly anything better than getting into a pre-warmed motorhome after a cold day on the slopes. The investment has already paid off after the first use.

  • 2012 Max Air roof ventilator integrated into the Home Assistant via infrared

    The "Max Air" roof vent from the brand "2012" (yes, it really is called that) is one of the best roof vents I've seen so far. With a price of only around €200 and really good workmanship, it is simply impressive.

    I will discuss the exact advantages and disadvantages in a future blog post. The main focus here will be on how to integrate the fan control into Home Assistant.

    2012 Max Air roof ventilator
    • [Low-noise brushless motor - five times longer service life than conventional brush motors]: Exclusive brushless motor solution that operates with extremely low noise. Powerful...

    Letzte Aktualisierung am 14.04.2026 / Werbung / Bilder von der Amazon Product Advertising API

    Status quo

    The fan is supplied with a simple infrared remote control. There are also buttons on the device.

    The only interface without opening or otherwise manipulating the device is therefore to use the infrared interface on the underside of the device to trigger certain actions such as opening and closing the flap

    Infrared reverse engineering

    Reverse engineering is a big word in this context, but it is actually exactly what is needed here: In order to simulate a button press on the original remote control with Home Assistant, we need the exact infrared codes that are sent by the remote control. We can then send the codes with an ESP32 and ESPHome via an IR transmitter and have thus enabled remote control via Home Assistant for just a few euros.

    What do we need?

    The following components can be used to read the codes and then send them again.

    ESP32 for controlling the IR diodes

    Offer
    ESP32
    • Powerful ESP32 microcontroller installed! An absolute novelty on the market! The ESP32 ethernet is an absolute all-rounder. It is characterized by its compact design. For the...

    Letzte Aktualisierung am 14.04.2026 / Werbung / Bilder von der Amazon Product Advertising API

    Alternatively, other microcontrollers, such as an ESP8266, can also be used as long as they are supported by ESPHome.

    IR transmitter and receiver

    IR transmitter and receiver
    • IR is widely used for remote control. With this IR receiver set, the Arduino Project is able to transmit command to any IR remote receiver if you have the correct decoder.

    Letzte Aktualisierung am 14.04.2026 / Werbung / Bilder von der Amazon Product Advertising API

    I deliberately chose exactly this article, as the IR diodes are provided directly with the appropriate resistors and can be easily connected to the ESP with jumper cables.

    Record IR codes

    Of course, I first researched whether there were already known codes on the Internet that I could simply use. Although there are many instructions for integrating classic fans or air conditioning systems, I couldn't find anything suitable for roof fans. The brand "2012" is also rather unknown, which doesn't make things easy.

    Fortunately, the IR codes sent by the remote control are very easy to read and after a while I found the right combination. As you can see here in the video:

    The matching codes

    The following commands can be sent to the roof fan. At least that's all I've found out. There may be more, but there is already a bit more than with the original remote control:

    OPEN:
      address: 0x7F80
      command: 0xED12
    CLOSE:
      address: 0x7F80
      command: 0xF00F
    AIR IN:
      address: 0x7F80
      command: 0xF50A
    AIR OUT:
      address: 0x7F80
      command: 0xE01F
    STOP:
      address: 0x7F80
      command: 0xFA05
    LID UP:
      address: 0x7F80
      command: 0xFB04
    LID DOWN:
      address: 0x7F80
      command: 0xF906
    RAIN MODE:
      address: 0x7F80
      command: 0xE11E

    For example, there is a "Stop" command or one for "Lid-Up" or "Lid-Down", with which you can move the hatch up or down in small steps. The remaining commands are self-explanatory. They correspond to the commands on the remote control and on the device itself.

    If you use these codes and combine them with simple button entities in ESPHome, you can emulate the remote control and integrate it into Home Assistant.

    Complete ESP Home code
    esphome:
      name: fan-remote-esp8285
      platform: ESP8266
      board: esp8285
    
    wifi:
      ssid: !secret wifi_ssid
      password: !secret wifi_password
    
    captive_portal:
    
    # Enable logging
    logger:
    
    # Enable Home Assistant API
    api:
    
    web_server:
      version: 3
    
    ota:
      platform: esphome
    
    remote_receiver:
      pin:
        number: GPIO14
        inverted: True
      dump: nec
    
    remote_transmitter:
      id: my_remote_transmitter
      pin: GPIO4
      carrier_duty_percent: 50%
    
    button:
      - platform: template
        name: Open
        on_press:
          - remote_transmitter.transmit_nec:
              address: 0x7F80
              command: 0xED12
              repeat: 2
          - delay: 500ms
    
      - platform: template
        name: Close
        on_press:
          - remote_transmitter.transmit_nec:
              address: 0x7F80
              command: 0xF00F
              repeat: 2
          - delay: 500ms
    
      - platform: template
        name: Air In
        on_press:
          - remote_transmitter.transmit_nec:
              address: 0x7F80
              command: 0xF50A
              repeat: 2
          - delay: 500ms
    
      - platform: template
        name: Air Out
        on_press:
          - remote_transmitter.transmit_nec:
              address: 0x7F80
              command: 0xE01F
              repeat: 2
          - delay: 500ms
    
      - platform: template
        name: Stop
        on_press:
          - remote_transmitter.transmit_nec:
              address: 0x7F80
              command: 0xFA05
              repeat: 2
          - delay: 500ms
    
      - platform: template
        name: Lid Up
        on_press:
          - remote_transmitter.transmit_nec:
              address: 0x7F80
              command: 0xFB04
              repeat: 2
          - delay: 500ms
    
      - platform: template
        name: Lid Down
        on_press:
          - remote_transmitter.transmit_nec:
              address: 0x7F80
              command: 0xF906
              repeat: 2
          - delay: 500ms
    
      - platform: template
        name: Rain Mode
        on_press:
          - remote_transmitter.transmit_nec:
              address: 0x7F80
              command: 0xE11E
              repeat: 2
          - delay: 500ms

    I'm still working on a good UI in Home Assistant. Until then, I'm using a simple entity list to display all the buttons one below the other:

    Automations

    Now that control is possible via Home Assistant for the first time, it is of course possible to implement some automations that can automatically ensure a better climate in the camper. For example:

    1. Open the hatch automatically once a day, ventilate at the highest level for 30 minutes and then close again.
      Particularly exciting when the camper is in storage.
    2. Ventilate automatically as soon as the humidity rises above a certain level.
      This is particularly easy to implement if you have a sensor indoors and outdoors so that you can compare the values. If the air outside is drier than inside, it is worth ventilating.
    3. Automatic start as an extractor hood when the hob is activated.
      This is particularly useful when cooking with an induction hob.

    Conclusion

    Control via IR is the easiest way to integrate the Max Air from 2012 into Home Assistant. However, there is one decisive disadvantage: the IR transmitter of the ESP always needs a clear view of the IR port of the fan. A good position in the camper is therefore a prerequisite. In future, I may try to control the circuit board or the motor directly in order to achieve even better control and, for example, to be able to set an individual speed. Because over-engineering always comes first 🤝🏻